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the
pioneers of surfing
-
credited with first riding a surf break
JAPAN
Japanese surfers
circa 1960. Photogragh provided by Tsugumitsu Saga
From
Nula
magazine, 1995 Number 1 page 66
BALI
Robert Koke (US)
visited Bali in the 1936 where he set up the Kuta Beach Hotel, with his
wife Louise.
Having surfed in
Hawaii, Koke recognised the value of Bali's surf and was probably Indonesia's
first surfer, on a ''big Honolulu board"* - one of two Hawaiian redwoods
imported in 1938. His enthusiasm for the sport encouraged others, including
his wife, Balinese employees and hotel guests.
Australian surfers
began exploring the island in the sixties, notably future Australian champion,
Russell Hughes, in 1967. Bali's surf was first shown on film in Bob Evans'
Family Free (?), 1971; but the full potential was dramatically
illustrated by footage of Rusty Miller and Steven Cooney at Uluwatu in
Alby Falzon's The Morning of the Earth, 1972.
Balinese surfers,
Kuta Beach Bali , 1930's
Images from
Nigel Simmonds :
Bali's First Surfers in Lueras' : Surfing
Indonesia, pages 50 - 53
References
Lueras' : Surfing
Indonesia, pages 37 -38 and 50 - 53
Thoms : Surfmovies,
page 116.
*Also note.. Koke,
Louise : Our Hotel in Bali, 19??
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