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Some brief comments pertaining to the history of surfboard design:
Precedents and
Experimentation.
Surfboard design
is rarely the result of pure individual inspiration (the notable exception
is probably kneeboarder, George Greenough).
Invariably the designer
is aware of design precedents and/or waveriding experimentation.
Design experimentation
is usually validated by a group of "test pilots" who provide performance
feedback.
An Evolutionary
Process
In a majority of
cases, surfboard designers attempt to improve wave riding performance by
either:
a. take an existing
design and by modifying or changing one specific feature.
or
b. combine two or
more previously delevoped features to produce a new design.
"Patents".
Successful surfboard
designs are generably not patentable, and most attempts to do so have been
demonstrably unsuccessful.
When a new design
becomes available it is able to be quickly reproduced by other manufacturers
from an existing observed example, diagrams or photographs.
Certification.
Successful designs
are promoted to the surfing community by either, and often a combination
of:
1. available as
a commercial item.
2. media exposure.
3. contest performance.
Media.
Designs are detailed
in various media- magazines, books, films, videos, DVDs and the internet.
Apart from the recently
developed internet, most media has a significant lag-time between composition
and publication.
For most magazines,
the lag-time can be up to three months.
This was significantly
reduced in Australia during the 1970's with the adoption of the low cost
newspsper format by Tracks magazine.
For books the lag
can be twelve months,with a similar time for film.
Video and DVD releases
can be somewhat shorter.
Contests.
Contests have been
instrumental in presenting new designs to a wide and experienced peer group.
Significantly, contest
reports can be critical in specifically dating design developments when
subsequently detailed in various media.
While most commentators
focus exclusively on contest winners, when discussing design it is just
as important to examine those who are finalists.
The Surfer/Shaper.
Up to the mid-1980s,
design developments were usually the attributed to surfers of recognised
ability who designed and successfully rode their boards.
The last of the
recognised surfer/shapers was probably Simon Anderson who introduced his
three fin thruster design in 1981.
Since the late 1980s
design has progressively become the provenance of the established shaper
who provides boards for a stable of competitve professionals.
Big Wave - Small
Wave Designs.
While surfboard
design has had many variations there has generally been a distinction between
boards built for small waves (up to 8 feet) and big waves (substantially
larger than 8 feet).
Given that most
surfers regulary ride waves in the small wave category, this has tended
to be the area of most experimentation.
Custom Designs.
When examining vintage
surfboards it should be noted that for boards may have been shaped specifically
for a particular rider, the dimensions are often resized from those of
the average surfer.
For very large surfers
the dimensions are scaled up, while for juvenile or smaller riders the
dimensions are scaled down.
"Speed".
While surfboard
designers have invariably promoted their boards as an "improvement in speed",
in actuality this feature has been largely over-rated.
Generally the answer
to how to make a surfboard go faster is to simply make it smaller, as demonstrated
by the "Short Board (R)Evolution" from 1967 to 1970.
The major design
requirement has been rather a matter of control - how to maintain control
of the board at high speed or in extreme wave conditions.
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